The complete ski package – Val Gardena.
An overlooked gem in South Tyrol, Italy.
Had enough of over priced ski holidays dishing up mediocre food? Take a trip to the vast ski area of the Dolomites and experience the real charm of family run hotels together with amazing cuisine.
We have skied all over Europe and the USA but the South Tyrol is our preferred ski getaway.
Selva, one of the larger ski areas, is connected to a network of smaller villages which encompasses 200 lifts serving ski terrain of over 500 KM. Spend a week here and never ski the same path twice. The Dolomites, with their more solid structure and higher tree line, provide a strong contrast to the jagged Alps and evoke the canyon landscape in Arizona and Utah. Although the Marmolada glacier reaches an imposing 3,342m the majority of the ski areas are concentrated at less than 2,500 – less challenging runs than Verbier and Chamonix but more suitable for family skiing. The attraction is the variety and ease that is offered by the Southern Tyrol. A favoured adventure, for young and old, is to ski over to the secluded village of San Cassiano and enjoy the culinary delights at the surprising Hotel Armentarola before embarking on a short taxi ride to the cable car at Passo Falzarego. From here you reach the tranquil valley of Lagazuoi where the run down, amid frozen waterfalls, is suitably relaxed for post lunch exercise. For the return, local farmers using traditional sleighs treat skiers to a horse tow. The memory of nearly letting go of the rope and dropping ski poles makes my children smile – they listened to the laughter and screaming of the other skiers who, suddenly jolted by the horses, are no longer holding the rope and now face the more strenuous task of having to push themselves across the flat terrain. This forms a magical experience and one that is so charming compared to the hustle of the more internationally acclaimed European resorts.
Our favourite place to stay is the Hotel Chalet Portillo, named after the Chilean location of the downhill ski race, which was won by the hotel’s owner, Carlos Senoner, in 1966. Chalet Portillo, with only 29 rooms, is small enough for the guests to enjoy their own space, whether that is a quiet drink in the newly refurbished bar or an energetic game of foosball in the games room near the pool area. Be prepared for the wonders of South Tyrolean cuisine and the wines from Alto Adige that are fantastic and rarely available in England. Children fight over kaiserschmarrn (literally King’s mishmash – a delicious pancake/omelette cross), which is found at many of the mountain restaurants. For the more serious contenders it is well worth making the 15 minute taxi ride from the Chalet Portillo to have dinner at the Anna Stuben in Ortisei – one of several Michelin starred restaurants in the region.
How to get there
EasyJet to Innsbruck – one and half hour transfer
British Airways to Verona – two hour transfer
Taxi Autosella: info@taxiautosella.it
Where to stay
Hotel Chalet Portillo, Selva
Hotel Armentarola, San Cassiano
Mountain Restaurants
Selva: Ciampac
Be prepared to fight for a table in this small hut – its worth it
San Cassiano: Hotel Armentarola
Beautiful hotel – great risotto
Alpe di Siusi: Zallinger
Book – it’s very busy. Home of the best kaiserschmarrn
Colfosco: Hotel Jagerhof
A two star hotel favoured by the Carabinieri. Polenta and meat dishes
Arabba: Hotel Pourdoi
Simple surroundings with large variety – including pizzas
Town Restaurants
Anna Stuben, Ortisei
Ski School & Hire
Ski School 2000
Ski teacher: Patrick Runger
Top Ski
Ski guide: Luca Broll
Ski Pass
Adult ski pass 1 week: €262
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The Occasional Nut is the blog of Olga, a squirrel lady-about-town who seeks to discover the latest and greatest around London. From eateries and fine-dining to the latest films, plays and musicals. If it's public, she's there.
